Fabric & fit
Every number we hold ourselves to.
Weights, yarn counts, knit structures, graded measurements and shrinkage tolerances. If it is on this page, it is on the spec sheet, and it is what arrives on the pallet.
How we spec
A garment is a set of numbers.
Blank apparel is sold with adjectives — buttery, premium, luxe. None of those survive a production run. We publish the measurable properties instead, and we test them on every shipment before it leaves the mill.
Fabric weight is verified by GSM cutter on three rolls per lot. Shrinkage is tested at three domestic washes at 40°C with a tumble dry. Colour is read against a sealed lab dip under D65 lighting, with a tolerance of dE 1.0 on core colours.
Testing on every lot
- GSM — 3 rolls per lot, cutter method
- Shrinkage — 3 washes, 40°C, tumble dry
- Colour — D65, dE 1.0 on core colours
- Seam strength — 25 lb minimum
- Collar recovery — 95% after 20 stretches
- Pilling — grade 4 minimum, Martindale
- pH — 4.5 to 7.5, skin safe
Measurements
FT-200 Premium Ring-Spun Tee
Body width measured 1 in below the armhole, laid flat. Body length from high point of shoulder. All figures in inches, tolerance ±0.5 in.
| Size | Body width | Body length | Sleeve length | Neck width |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 16.5 | 26.0 | 7.5 | 6.5 |
| S | 18.0 | 27.5 | 8.0 | 6.8 |
| M | 20.0 | 29.0 | 8.5 | 7.0 |
| L | 22.0 | 30.0 | 9.0 | 7.3 |
| XL | 24.0 | 31.0 | 9.5 | 7.5 |
| 2XL | 26.0 | 32.0 | 10.0 | 7.8 |
| 3XL | 28.0 | 33.0 | 10.5 | 8.0 |
| 4XL | 30.0 | 34.0 | 11.0 | 8.3 |
FF-700 Pullover Hoodie
Sleeve measured from centre back neck to cuff. Tolerance ±0.75 in.
| Size | Body width | Body length | Sleeve (CB) | Hood height |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 20.0 | 26.0 | 33.5 | 13.0 |
| M | 22.0 | 27.0 | 34.5 | 13.5 |
| L | 24.0 | 28.0 | 35.5 | 14.0 |
| XL | 26.0 | 29.0 | 36.5 | 14.5 |
| 2XL | 28.0 | 30.0 | 37.5 | 15.0 |
| 3XL | 30.0 | 31.0 | 38.5 | 15.5 |
FW-100 Women’s Relaxed Tee
Tolerance ±0.5 in. Shaped side seam measured at the narrowest point.
| Size | Chest width | Waist width | Body length | Sleeve length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 16.0 | 15.5 | 24.5 | 6.5 |
| S | 17.0 | 16.5 | 25.5 | 6.8 |
| M | 18.5 | 18.0 | 26.5 | 7.0 |
| L | 20.0 | 19.5 | 27.5 | 7.3 |
| XL | 22.0 | 21.5 | 28.5 | 7.5 |
| 2XL | 24.0 | 23.5 | 29.5 | 7.8 |
| 3XL | 26.0 | 25.5 | 30.5 | 8.0 |
Care & shrinkage
What happens after the first wash.
Every cotton garment moves. The question is whether it moves predictably. Our tolerances are set so that a customer who buys a large after three washes still owns a large.
| Style | Length change | Width change |
|---|---|---|
| FT-200 | −3.0% to −4.5% | −1.5% to −3.0% |
| FT-100 | −4.0% to −6.0% | −2.0% to −3.5% |
| FT-250 | −1.5% to −3.0% | −1.0% to −2.0% |
| FT-300 | −2.0% to −4.0% | −1.0% to −2.5% |
| FF-600 / FF-700 | −3.0% to −5.0% | −2.0% to −3.0% |
Recommended care
- Machine wash cold or warm, up to 40°C
- Wash inside out to protect the print
- Tumble dry low, or line dry
- Do not iron directly on the print
- No fabric softener on fleece — it flattens the nap
- No bleach on dyed colours
- Heathers may release a small amount of dye on the first wash
Glossary
Terms we use, and what they actually mean.
Combed
Short fibres are combed out before spinning. Fewer loose ends means a smoother surface and less pilling.
Ring-spun
Fibres are twisted continuously into a finer, stronger yarn. Softer hand and better print definition than open-end yarn.
Singles
A yarn thickness measure. A higher number means finer yarn. A 30 singles tee is lighter and smoother than an 18.
Side-seamed
Cut from flat panels and sewn at the sides, so the garment can be shaped. Tubular bodies cannot be.
Loopback
The fleece construction where loops on the inside are brushed to create the soft face. Ours is brushed once, not twice, to keep the outside flat.
Tear-away label
A neck label stitched so it can be removed cleanly, leaving a blank neck for your own brand mark.